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| Avoiding Camera Shake With Shutter Speed |
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Message edited at 02/15/2008, 09:46:30 AM by Waldo4 |
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I looks with that camera holding technique that it could benefit further from grasping a monopod or walking stick of some sort with the left arm, in addition to the holding right arm (might not work for people with little hands), especially for heavy lenses.
Whenever I HH a shot I always take at least 4-5 shots in rapid fire to find the sharpest. Shot #1 almost never is (if fact it might not ever have been), usually shot #3 or #4 is the sharpest. It depends on the FPS of the camera, but after the initial jiggle of pressing the shutter, there is a quick stable period before the effects of holding a position long term begin to introduce jiggle, with my camera and arms that works out to shot #3 or 4. |
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Message posted at 02/15/2008, 10:06:54 AM by Maigi |
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Thanks, Ned and Jay! A lot of techniques to test and try, which works best. Thank you for your suggestions and links! |
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Canon 550D, Tamron AF 18-270mm, Canon 50mm, Wacom Intuos4 M,...
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Message posted at 04/19/2008, 13:38:18 PM by Cuatrofb |
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this is probably useless, but here's my take on it:
no matter what, you're camera will always be moving, its the nature of our atmosphere and physics prove it.
so lets cook up a formula
SM=B
s=shutter speed M=camera shake (movement) B=Blurriness
so the more of each initial variable, S and M, the blurrier the photo. We know that M is a positive number, since we know the camera is always moving. This means if we were calculating for a 0 blurriness photo, we would need a 0 shutterspeed, since 0 is the only number you can multiply a positive number by to equal zero. Of course, a 0 shutter speed is impossible, so the ideal is an extremely fast shutter speed, as close to zero as possible.
So in the end, you must realize that zero camera shake is impossible, since that is the core to the answer to your question... The higher the shutter speed, the faster it is, the less blurriness you will encounter, which i am guessing is your ultimate goal.
Of course, i could be completely wrong :P |
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Message posted at 04/19/2008, 15:01:43 PM by Maigi |
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| Originally posted by Cuatrofb: |
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| Quoted Message: Of course, i could be completely wrong :P |
LOL
But I like the reasoning... ;) |
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Canon 550D, Tamron AF 18-270mm, Canon 50mm, Wacom Intuos4 M,...
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Message posted at 04/21/2008, 15:25:03 PM by Kelpfish |
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Use a bungie cord with slight tension (but not too much of course) instead of string. Then you can pan and still get some tension to help stabilize the camera.
Joe |
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Message posted at 04/22/2008, 02:28:22 AM by Pirate59 |
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My two cents.
I find the 'sport' or multi shot idea works best for me.
resting against a object also helps heaps, but i have had situations that extra objects make it worse.
i have a few examples.
1)
Shooting some tigers at a zoo, we were standing on a wood and rope suspension bridge. naturally other people crossing this bridge caused motion. But each time i shot 4-7 images, and moved on. Overall i think i had over 300 images of tigers but i got the shots i wanted.
*Note some are currently pending so we will see if they really were any good or not =)
2)
I was at Epcot (one of the Disney Parks in Orlando) at the end of the evening and trying to cheat a 1/3 sec shot of fireworks was getting hard. The pulsing of the bass in the music made the handrail vibrate.
In reality though thats a rare situation.
There are lots of good ideas here. And i reckon that most if not all will be very useful.
It really depends of the situation |
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Canon EOS Rebel Xti
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