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Home > Dreamstime Message Board > General > Never Seems To Be Enough Light

 

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Page: 1 Showing posts 1 - 16 of 16

Never Seems To Be Enough Light

Author Message
Rockhard
18 posts
Message posted at 02/16/2005, 09:24:29 AM by Rockhard
The subject title says it all. I take alot of shots in boxing and Muay Thai rings (Canon EOS 300D) here in Thailand and also in Cambodia. It always seems that my shots are always way to dark and the camera runs on the dark side. I do use a flash (Speedlight 420EX) and it's just not enough. I have the ISO between 800-1600, exposure seems good, yet, the shots are always dark. I'm now trying to use a custom white balance to help this but I hate to shoot another entire fight card (there's one on Friday) unless I know I've got this figured out. Right now I'm using a standard Canon 18-55MM and in the next few days I'm getting a 50MM f/1.4 or f/1.8 so I'm a bit lost here and frustrated. It's not only the fight cards as I know the lighting at the fights is usually poor. It's almost anywhere indoors. Suggestions? Shoot the cameraman? Throw the camera in the canal? Lol...
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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Inspireme
234 posts
Message posted at 02/16/2005, 09:40:46 AM by Inspireme
its hard to suggest anything without having a look at a few examples that you have had trouble with... any chance you could post one somewhere?
Canon Eos 300D + 20D + random lenses, studio lights, and a r...

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Rockhard
18 posts
Message posted at 02/16/2005, 09:55:26 AM by Rockhard
I'll see what I can find or maybe I'll even take a few shots and put them somewhere to be viewed.
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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Demonike
478 posts
Message edited at 02/16/2005, 13:53:11 PM by Demonike - member is an admin
I think the new lens is going help you a lot. I bought a prime 90mm/2.5 in addition to the kit lens 28-80mm/3.3 and its a HUGE difference in light power. With the kit lens I always had to ocompensate a few stops, but with the prime lens, it seems I have to do the other way around :)

I don't think WB settings will help you a lot here, because it only alters the colour of the light.

I don't know about your mentioned speedlight, but it would surely benefit from a zoom feature. Sot that it narrows the beam and focuses it further away, when you zoom in.
Nikon D200 (D70), Nikkor Fisheye 10.5mm/2.8, Nikko...

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Rockhard
18 posts
Message edited at 02/17/2005, 07:57:57 AM by Admin
If you check out the Muay Thai / Kickboxing folder you might be able to see what I mean. Some of the shots I even brightened with Photoshop.

-------------------
edited by the Site Admin
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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Tano
462 posts
Message posted at 02/17/2005, 07:58:39 AM by Tano - member is an admin
Please do not post links to other stock agencies. Thanks.


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Rockhard
18 posts
Message posted at 02/17/2005, 08:58:27 AM by Rockhard
Ok, this site is not a stock photo site, it's just a photo site where I have some of my pictures of kickboxing:

http://www.photopoints.com/main/gallery/viewgallery.aspx?id=1736
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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Tano
462 posts
Message posted at 02/17/2005, 09:09:28 AM by Tano - member is an admin
NP with this one:)
By the way, great pictures, congrats!


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Rockhard
18 posts
Message posted at 02/24/2005, 20:29:05 PM by Rockhard
Ok...I took some shots in my house of silver using the flash. If you click on this link and go to the temporary album, you can see what I mean about the shots just not having enough light. I always seem to have this problem! Anyhow, click on the temporary album and use the password WIGWAM to get in. I didn't want people thinking these are examples of my good photos so I password protected the album. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

http://www.photopoints.com/main/gallery/default.aspx?id=10320
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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Cerenzio
19 posts
Message posted at 02/24/2005, 21:39:57 PM by Cerenzio
Sir, I'm pooped so I'll be breif, but a few things.

A.) Shooting boxing in poor lighting is a nightmare! Don't be discouraged. If you can pull it off, you've acomplished ALOT.

B.) I had exposure problems with my digital rebel, after 11,000 images (so you know I really worked with it alot!) I sold it, stepped up to the 10D (and loved it!) and now my 20D. But there are other issues.

C.) The 420ex (I also owned and sold) is not a very powerfull flash. I would consider stepping up to something with more power. The Canon 550 or 580EX would be optimal, but its costly, sigma just released the 500 DG SUPER. It's comparble to the Canon 550 and is only $175 on ebay. I got mine last week and have had much better results over my 420ex. For the price you can't go wrong. I think at the very least, you need MORE POWER. That will help you alot. The 420 just won't cut it for demanding conditions.

I'm a little confused because here in NJ they will shoot me on the spot if I use a flash to shoot boxing. I shoot as wide open as possible, lowest F-STOP I can get away with.

-Gregg


Originally posted by Rockhard:
Quoted Message: The subject title says it all. I take alot of shots in boxing and Muay Thai rings (Canon EOS 300D) here in Thailand and also in Cambodia. It always seems that my shots are always way to dark and the camera runs on the dark side. I do use a flash (Speedlight 420EX) and it's just not enough. I have the ISO between 800-1600, exposure seems good, yet, the shots are always dark. I'm now trying to use a custom white balance to help this but I hate to shoot another entire fight card (there's one on Friday) unless I know I've got this figured out. Right now I'm using a standard Canon 18-55MM and in the next few days I'm getting a 50MM f/1.4 or f/1.8 so I'm a bit lost here and frustrated. It's not only the fight cards as I know the lighting at the fights is usually poor. It's almost anywhere indoors. Suggestions? Shoot the cameraman? Throw the camera in the canal? Lol...
Canon 5D, 24-70L, 70-300 IS USM

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Fotoeye75
407 posts
Message posted at 02/25/2005, 01:11:25 AM by Fotoeye75
I would try using selective lighting techniques .. experiment with exposing for highlights using spot metering .. bump the contrast up and let the shadows black out so that the images are less detail and more dramatic .. would be easier with a longer focal length that focused on the impact and less on the entire ring.
Nikon D200 .. Nikon D50 .. various nikkors.. Photoshop CS3 ....

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Rockhard
18 posts
Message posted at 02/26/2005, 20:53:08 PM by Rockhard

Originally posted by Cerenzio:
Quoted Message: Sir, I'm pooped so I'll be breif, but a few things.

A.) Shooting boxing in poor lighting is a nightmare! Don't be discouraged. If you can pull it off, you've acomplished ALOT.

B.) I had exposure problems with my digital rebel, after 11,000 images (so you know I really worked with it alot!) I sold it, stepped up to the 10D (and loved it!) and now my 20D. But there are other issues.

C.) The 420ex (I also owned and sold) is not a very powerfull flash. I would consider stepping up to something with more power. The Canon 550 or 580EX would be optimal, but its costly, sigma just released the 500 DG SUPER. It's comparble to the Canon 550 and is only $175 on ebay. I got mine last week and have had much better results over my 420ex. For the price you can't go wrong. I think at the very least, you need MORE POWER. That will help you alot. The 420 just won't cut it for demanding conditions.

I'm a little confused because here in NJ they will shoot me on the spot if I use a flash to shoot boxing. I shoot as wide open as possible, lowest F-STOP I can get away with.

-Gregg


Somehow I always manage to get a few decent shots but I'd like to raise the odds a bit and take a higher percentage of good to great shots.

I was kind of wondering if it was the camera or me or what. I do definitely need a better flash and will probably buy the Sigma shortly.

As far as taking pictures with a flash, I'm in Thailand NOT America. I've shot all throughout Asia and will be shooting in Burma shortly and a flash is NEVER discouraged. I am trying to get to the point though that if I am not allowed to use a flash my photos still look good.

I now have the 50MM f/1.8 lens whic I am starting to figure out. One thing though...I've got to the point where I can get the proper exposure and look to my shots, I just can't get them focused as sharply as I want and with the EOS 300D it's a bit hard to get a good, crisp shot using the 50MM without flash AND with an ISO of 800 or higher. I need to use the maual setting but it's still just not what I think I should be getting. Maybe it's me or maybe it's the camera but I'm going to fiddle with it some more. I have a shot next weekend, 3 days, 4-5 fight cards in Cambodia and I am expecting to get some great shots. I'm working on a photo book about Cambodian kickboxing and I refuse to put in any poor shots so I hate to waste my time and take lousy shots!
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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Minute
19 posts
Message posted at 02/27/2005, 04:19:14 AM by Minute
I think your sharpness problems are coming from using your lens wide open. While I'm no expert I pretty sure that no normal lens is at its sharpest when used at its widest aperture.
Nikon D70, Nikon 18-70mm, Nikon 50mm prime, Sigma 70-300 APO...

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Rockhard
18 posts
Message posted at 02/27/2005, 05:50:22 AM by Rockhard
The photos are just too dark really if I close the aperture. So it's a trade-off and I just haven't been able to find the settings that are working. Like I said, if I decide to just go ahead and use the flash, then the shutterspeed is maxed out at 1/200 which isn't sufficient. I'm going to email another guy who shoots sports photography and maybe he can see something I'm missing.
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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Jsnover
121 posts
Message posted at 02/28/2005, 22:39:53 PM by Jsnover
I don't have a 300D, but do have a D60 and 20D and I wondered if you were shooting RAW or JPEG? If it's JPEG, have you tried shooting RAW and then improving exposure in post-processing?

It won't work miracles, but you can often shoot something in low light and then bring up the shadows without losing detail (work with a 16 bit file made from the RAW until the exposure and color corrections are made, then move down to 8 bits).

With the stuff shot at home, I think the problem is that when shooting against a white background, even with partial metering, you'll often get a gray background. You can use exposure compensation, shoot RAW and fix in Photoshop, or spot meter manually and switch to completely manual settings.

Jo Ann
Canon 20D, D60 and Elan IIe

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Rockhard
18 posts
Message posted at 03/01/2005, 14:11:43 PM by Rockhard
Thanks, I'll try shooting RAW.
Canon EOS 300D, Canon 18-55 MM Lens, Sigma 70-300MM Lens, Ca...

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