Quoted Message: You are right about the sync speed with canon`s, my bad! As a Nikon shooter, i don`t know much about canon.But as freezing water stream with lower speed like your sugestion i do not agree. In order to get this gelly-icy look from a fast stream water flow, your must have a faster speed shutter, minimum i would say of 1/600s... at this shot i have tested several shutter speeds and in order to get even the tiny little microscopic droplets around the stream sharp and frozen, the speed had to really fast (the best results was with 1/4000s)
A lot depends on what your ambient light is doing. In a totally black room with all the light from the flash you should get better motion stopping flash output by using a low shutter speed (i.e. the max speed before you need the High Speed sync mode - 1/200s - 1/250s) and setting the flash to manual exposure at a low power setting. A flash is the worst at stopping motion at its max power output; every notch down from full power you shorten the duration of the flash, which is better for stopping motion.
When you go above the max sync speed the flash has to maintain the output for as long as the shutter is open. So even when sync'd at 1/4000s you could still do better on manual getting as low as 1/50,000 of a second. Note that there are a lot of other factors, though - like the fact that 1/128 flash power might not be enough light :)
I've noticed with my Canon flash that using Auto exposure on the flash often fails to stop motion as it keeps the flash on long enough to get a good exposure - which is usually longer than needed compared to the same flash output with a manual flash setting. You also really up your recharge time in Auto versus manual...
Agreed - it is a confusing topic; hard to accept that you can shoot with 1/250s and low power flash and get a shorter effective duration than using high speed sync at 1/4000s. It all comes down to how much ambient light you have... To me, the point of high speed sync is freezing the light contribution of the ambient exposure.
So in your example, if you have lots of daylight streaming in, you should get better freezing of motion with high speed sync as you stated.
Very useful and nice contribution Brad! Thank you a lot! At the next 24th of September i will be atending a 4 1/2 hours course of advance lighting at Nikon Center of my town. Hope i can leave with a lot of new knowledge at this matter and share with all DT forum users!
I have a NIkon D70 (backup) and D300. I was in the market for a new body and to get rid of the D70. I looked at the D7000 and decided the D300 did wast I needed anbd purchased another D300. It's not always the NEW product that is the best for you. It's what will do the job.