I'm no expert, but my understanding is that color fringe has more to do with the lens than the camera. It appears when using lesser quality lenses to shoot high contrast images. The best way I've found to combat it is by shooting in RAW and using the Photoshop RAW editor. There's a special function in it specifically for removing/reducing color fringe.
There's a good article on it here. You can also get much more information by simply Googling "color fringe."
Quoted Message: I`m no expert, but my understanding is that color fringe has more to do with the lens than the camera. It appears when using lesser quality lenses to shoot high contrast images. The best way I`ve found to combat it is by shooting in RAW and using the Photoshop RAW editor. There`s a special function in it specifically for removing/reducing color fringe.There`s a good article on it here. You can also get much more information by simply Googling "color fringe."
Thank you for the information.
Thats my problem, I don't think there should be that much fringing for my 24-105L lens. For what I paid for it there should be none. What I don't know is if this is a problem with the lens or my 60d body.
If you look at the link to the image that I posted above you can clearly see that there is chromatic aberration in areas that are not that high of contrast, especially if you look on the left side of the truck.
If that kind of fringing is normal then thats fine, but I dont think it is.
Again that image was taken with a canon 24-105l lens mounted on a 60d body.
Quoted Message: I just upgraded my 28-135 lens to the 24-105l lens, and I still seem to be getting some chromatic aberration. Its not as bad as it was on the 28-135, but I didn`t think that there should be any.Is this a problem with the 24-105l or is it the 60d camera its mounted on?
You can have chromatic aberrations with ANY lens. So try changing the angle toward the light, try using a lens hood, check for any filter (if it's a low quality filter it will amplify the aberrations).
You can easily remove the aberrations in the post processing process in various software, automatically or manual.
Hope this helps, enjoy!
Photography I use Nikon 105mm F2.8G, Nikon 35mm F1.8G, Nikon crop body...
Since it is a new lens, why don't you discuss it with the retailer you bought it from? Ask if it is possibly a problem with the lens, is it the way you are shooting in high contrast, has anyone else complained, etc., etc.?
Currently my primary cameras are a Fuji X-Pro2 and a Fuji X-T2.
Postiveflash, that really looks too much for me and the image doesn´t look very sharp as well. I think you should return the lens. Even though its easy to fix it on photoshop my images with the 24-105 rarely has no purple fringe at all, I normally don´t need to use any software to fix it, even in harsher contrast situtations. For what I know the body has nothing to do with the purple fringe, except for the sensor resolution, because it gets more obvious in a higher resolution.
i think, CA is always a lens problem, not camera. Also can avoided CA if not take photos with very high contrast - in example, very good test object for CA is take a shot of thin things, like a tree branches, in contrary light. Do not know, it be possible to get no CA at all in all photo situations, with regular lenses? In astronomy, we also deal with optics and also with CA - for combat CA there is a APO and SuperAPO lenses - expensives, but effectively press out CA. Also in optics is be a mirror optics - newtonian - where principal we have absolutely no CA. Also catadioptric scheme like a Maksutov or SCT must be a CA free, as i understand. But for regular objectives with autofocus, diaphragm, corrected field, and even a changing focus length - maybe it is almost impossible, a fully suppress CA. I think, fixed focal length lenses must be better in CA side.
Now: Canon EOS 450D, kit EF-S 18-55 IS,Canon EF-S 55-250 IS S...
So I took both my lens and my camera into a camera shop, and am a little surprised by what I found out.
It's not the lens. I know that because we mounted the lens on a demo 7d and there was no issue. They also sell used lenses and we mounted several of those on my 60d and many of those images turned out similar to the image I posted above.
Apparently its a problem with the sensor, the guy who helped me said that they have had a few people come in with similar problems on there 60ds.
I have looked on the internet to see if it is infact a common problem and while I did find a few similar issues I would'nt call it common. It seems people kept attributing it to lens until they upgraded, much like I did.
I suggest you look in the thedigitalpicture(dot)com database of lens tests - they have 24-105 tested on 60D and full-frame as well and in both cases (look for resolution test - ISO crops) the CA is visible in mid-frame and corners... Check the images with different apertures to find out the "acceptable range" of aperture for shooting, if you want to avoid CA. Well, the L grade lenses are not absolutely perfect...
(I have 40D and I am also having more-than-expected CA with 24-70L 2.8 (mark I). I do not believe it is the camera problem. The glass elements in the lens are supposed to eliminate the CA. Now I am always checking those ISO crops when deciding which lens to buy)
Today when buying optics its pretty much a hit and miss thing, good sample, bad sample? always test a few lenses before chosing/buying. I bought a 14 mil Canon a few months back, had CA! went back and got another sample, hardly any CA. The 24-105 however does have slight CA, especially at the wide end.
Purple fringing and CA, is really two separate things, looks almost identical but still, another issue.
shoot in Raw and remove as much as you can in the raw-converter.
In-camera settings should be, zero sharpness and zero noise-red.
The CA problem in the example is too much for that lens. There is a very easy way to remove CA in post-process. But you should compare your lens with other examples. Maybe you can send it to Cannon for a re-calibration.
Chromatic problems should be more noticeable on cropped sensors I guess. But this one looks seriously bad.
Is your lens mount and lens body intact? You'll get problems if you have a bent or damaged mount or lens parts. Sometimes if you bump your lens somewhere and something gets misaligned, you'll start to get photos like this till you get it fixed. It happened with some lenses I know of. Not sure about modern lenses. It has happened with a sigma 150-500mm lens. A loose mount misaligned the lens and caused problems. You have unreasonably high aberrations in specific parts.
Try this: Switch off IS. Take a shot. Switch on IS. Take the exactly similar shot. Use manual focus and do both again.
You'll have 4 photos. If they have different chromatic aberration levels, then your lens elements are misaligned.
55-250mm standard lenses. Dual tube macro flash and external speedlit...